As we hiked in the mountains, we were drawn by the tinkling sound of cowbells to a meadow where we came upon a breathtaking vista: a cluster of velvet-brown cows grazing among wildflowers, with the rugged limestone peaks of the Dolomites in the background. And just as entrancing as the view was the smell of freshly cooked pasta wafting our way from a rifugio, a traditional alpine shelter offering protection from sudden storms, hearty rustic fare and, in this case, a bed for the night. There, perched along a steep cliff at the edge of the meadow, we were soon seated at a table on the balcony, taking in the view along with one of the best meals we've ever had.

That kind of total sensory experience, as much as Italy's better-known wonders of art and architecture, reveals what is so fascinating about the country. A visit to Italy is a lesson in living well. Open-air vegetable and fruit markets, neighborhood bakeries and fresh cheeses made daily are fixtures of Italian life. Tradition reigns: Neighbors still meet in the piazza to discuss the day, laundry is still line-dried, even in the largest of cities, and the passeggiata (leisurely stroll) is still made in the evening air - preferably with a gelato in hand. From the mountains to the coasts, the emphasis is on simple pleasures and high quality.